Florence

Florence or Rome, what city is my favorite?

Last year we vacationed in Italy for 4 weeks staying approximately 11 days in Rome and 10 days in Florence.  Our stay last year was May-June.  This year we are based out of Rome with an apartment for 6 weeks here.  We visited Florence a few days ago for 3 days and 2 nights.  The two cities are vastly different in almost every way.  We have enjoyed watching many NETFLIX mini series on Rome and Florence including:

Recommended Netflix Series

  • The Roman Empire: a 3 season documentary narrated by some current historians but likely scattered with presumptions and rumors. When I walk the streets of the FORUM, this series sort of puts perspective and knowledge into it. I saw the place where Caeser was stabbed to death multiple times by the members of his senate.

  • The Two Popes: Behind Vatican walls, Pope Benedict and the future Pope Francis must face their pasts and find common ground in order to forge a new path for the Catholic Church.

  • Medici: 3 seasons (series) which interestingly enough cannot be seen in ROME. I wonder why? Perhaps they don’t like the content or how the city and leaders are portrayed. We will watch the end of this when we get back to Florida. After his father's murder, banking heir Cosimo Medici battles opponents of his artistic, economic and political visions for 15th-century Florence

Cosimo II De Medici Granduca N. 1590-1621

We so enjoyed the above series as they are well written, the cinematography is excellent, and we are assuming the historical details are moderately accurate.  Watching these series helped us have a real taste and flavor for Italy and specifically Rome and Florence.  I smile when I see the Royalty travel between on Rome and Florence on horseback and buggy as if it takes only a few hours.  It takes about 1 hour and 15 minute 120 MPG train ride between the cities.  A horse gallops around 25 MPH and walks about 4-5 MPH.  Lets just a assume a walking trotting horse and about a 170 mile travel three horse ride would take at least 12-20 hours.  In other words, DAYS.  We highly recommend the above 3 Netflix series.  Beware they may be sexy and explicit with a lot of bloodshed. Tom likes the sexy parts and Alice does not like the bloody parts.

So how are the two cities different from my perspective

The people

Rome:  We are living in an apartment and living like Alice says, “Like the locals”.  We can still walk to nearly all the tourist attractions like the Forum, the Coliseum, the Vatican and others  Walking distance can be up to 45 minutes from our location.  The PEOPLE at the main venues and attractions are similar as most of them are either tourists, tour guides, or those serving the tourist industry.  I must admit both of us are really CITY people and NOT rural people by nature.,  We love the theater, fine dining and beautiful big cities like Miami and Fort Lauderdale.  The people of Rome outside of the massive amount of tourists at the attractions are very genuine, hard working and sincere.  It has been much harder for us to find that in Florence, however, I must note that our waitress Julia at the wonderful Steak house in Florence who moved there from Rome prefers Florence over Rome primarily because of the people.  She said the people are friendlier and more like family in Florence than in Rome.

The tourists

Both Rome and Italy during this trip have been inundated  by tourists from all over the world.  We have met many American tourists, but the tourists are overwhelming these venues from all over the world.  I have never been one to appreciate being in a crowd feeling like a sardine in a can.  I get very paranoid, especially now because of the issues with thief’s and pick pockets.  They are everywhere.

The scammers

They are in both venues, everywhere.  They are selling everything from cheap wrist bracelets, scarfs, squishy balls of GLOB you throw on the ground and they hit with a big stupid sound.  It’s a setup to not only sell you JUNK but to engage you in a conversation so either they or their   co-conspirators are finding a way to sneak in your backpack or your wallet to get the mother load.  How many Nigerians have approached me with their only line….. “Are you African?”  I want to respond with, “Are you Swedish?”  I was approached by a Nigerian who asked, “can you tell me the time?”  I responded with, “No, I don’t know the time…”  He got real aggressive and almost accosted me right there.  Glad I had Alice with me to protect me with her coat of Armor…. IBKul.

I watched this scammer on the prowl and then chased after these poor souls.

The food

We are in Italy, 99.9% of all the restaurants we see, menus we look at are of course Italian food, with course 1-12.  How many course can a fat American eat in one setting?  Florence is world famous for its wonderful Steak houses.  Aside from that the restaurants are very similar.  However, there is no question the food and nearly everting in Florence is more expensive than Rome.  There is no question the food is fantastic in both places.  I can’t ignore the fact that often times I want anything but Italian lol.  Last night we went to a wonderful SUSHI/Japanese restaurant just down the street.  Lets talk more about cost of the food.

Our favorite local restaurant, just down the street: La Lampada.

The food is fantastic serving both lunch and dinner and is actually just down the stairs from our apartment,  Our server Angelo who is the self proclaimed “Best Waiter in all of Italy” is wonderful and we love to eat there often because of the food but perhaps mostly because of our new good friend Angelo.  We can eat 2-3 course meals there with a glass of wine for under $75 where the same meal in Delray Beach would be as much as $150.  We an have a wonderful bowl of soup and a short pasta meal for less than $25.00  We got spoiled as when we went to Florence the costs were nearly as high as Miami/Fort Lauderdale.

Take a look at the food of italy

The sites and Venues

Florence:  Amazing, amazing, amazing,  Art and history every where.  Our favorite museum: Uffizi.  Of course you have the statue of David and others.  You also have the Arno river and all the beautiful bridges and the views of the Ponte Vecchio. All are amazing and most beautiful at sunrise and sunset.

Rome:  For me, the FORUM and Coliseum, are the wonders of the world.  Add to that the incredible churches, and of course Saint Peter’s Basilica are off the chart.    

Rome first

Florence next

The winner

Rome.  It just does not feel as “touristy” as Florence.  Perhaps we need to figure out how “living like the locals” feels in Florence like it does in Rome.  Of course this is my opinion.  Both cities are fantastic and are currently inundated by a massive amount of tourists which really lessens the experience of being the wonderful venues.

Alice loves the sophistication and feel that is brought to the city of Rome. The office and business attire people are wearing. The hustle and bustle of each morning and evening as the business people commute to and from work. All the perfectly tailer made blue suits worn by the Italian men. It has and feels more like a real city …. with class.

This of course is my opinion and I invite you to Italy to discover these two beautiful cities and make up your own mind.

Are you African?

The food of Florence

Dinner always starts with wine. I love red wine.

From a non foodie

I believe Alice can be categorized as a true foodie, which in my opinion is someone who knows a lot more details about resteraunts, the preparation and even the ability to recreate it in her own kitchen. I have always called Alice a great CHEF while I am a pretty good cook. There is a great difference between the two.

I am not a foodie nor a chef, but I have always loved great food. I am opinionated you will from my commentary ons this blog.

What I have discovered about the restaurants in Italy including all three cities we have visited Are the following similar items:

Every lunch and dinner you're given a bag of bread. The bread especially in Florence has no salt in it. And they are proud to say that.

You are the salt of the earth

There seems to be a long history of Florence NOT using salt on any of its bread products including bag of bread, pizza dough and others. Salt was historically a matter of money and contention with ROME. Florence refused to use salt to support the romans in their salt as it was commonly used as a precious commodity even to the value of money. To this day, NO salt in Florences bread products. I miss the salt.

Note: Since I have been with Alice she has used little or NO salt in her cooking and food preparation even to the level of her guests bringing in a SALT shakers of their own to make their point. I normally add salt to everything she makes. I am the salt of the earth. HEY, you only live once.

A bag of bread, in Florence the bread is unsalted and has little taste.

Water, would you like flat or sparkling

Every Lunch and dinner the waiters and waitresses ask you if you want water. They then ask you if you want sparkling or still. We always ask for still water And it comes out in a sealed glass bottle and the water taste fantastic. When your bottle of water runs out you just ask for another one. The price of the bottle water is from 2 to 4 Euros each.

Could I have that menu in English please?

Nearly all the menus are written only in Italian. Very few menus have English as an option. Sometimes it is moderately easy to translate the words into their English counterpart but others it is nearly impossible.

Check please

It is always always always a struggle to first get your check and then to pay for your food. There is no rush to push you out of the table for the next patrons. they have no problem with you sitting at a table for 2 to 3 hours. It seems almost common.

Tipping

Tipping is an odd thing. They don't even know how to handle a tip. It seems I don't even expect one. This is very odd! When you pay for your bill on your credit card they bring out a machine swipe your card and there is not even a spot to add a tip. I guess it is customary to pay cash for tips. I understand the workers in the restaurant are paid a fairways and not expected to earn their income on tips and gratuities. This presents a whole different way of thinking and service by the restaurant staff.

We have both been amazed by how hard the help works in these restaurants. They have great pride in what they do from the bartenders to the waiters and waitresses and all the help involved. They all work hard with a smile on their face. This makes the dining experience a very pleasant one.

It seems nearly every restaurant we have been to excluding a few have the standard staples of pizza, spaghetti, and other Italian dishes.

You want Italian food, you got it!

Good luck finding a Mexican restaurant. We were told there was one with mediocre food and average margaritas.

If you love pasta and pizza you love the restaurants in Florence. Having observed many of the beautiful dishes deliver to the patrons of the restaurants in Florence, it is most common to see pizza and pasta.

We have both found by eating the carbs associated with Italian food, when we are hungry we are very hungry and it happens fast.

What I love most about the restaurants here are the people.

The Italian restaurants here in Italy don't seem at all like the Italian restaurants in the United States For the reasons I have described above.

Gelato, a staple in Florence

Gelato is an Italian frozen treat originally created in the 16th century. It is made with a lot less fat and is churned at much slower speed to prevent air. As a result, you get a denser texture and more intensive flavor. We have had lemon, pistachio, coconut and chocolate. My favorite so far was the pistachio. During the heat of the Italian summers I have been craving for this each day.

I have already had 4 servings and can’t get enough. Yummy.

Mother and child enjoying a Gelato in style!

Gelato stores are everywhere and they are always crowded

Wine, Wine and more wine

We have a new respect for Chianti wine from Tuscany and perfect for the hot weather. Our favorite was a Chianti was a mix of 80% Sangiovese grape and when drinking with the cold cuts from a charcuterie board, it cleanses the palate as the wine seems to wash away the heavy after taste. We will be putting a few bottles of Chianti Classico in our wine fridge for the summer months. It’s the perfect red for summer!

CHARCUTERIE BOARD

A selection of preserved foods, especially cured meats or pates as well as cheese and crackers or bread is also a staple at most all Italian restaurants. They restaurants have great pride in the presentation of their charcuterie boards. They can clearly define each cut of meat and where it came from, and how it was cured. We like this very much, however it seems very salty and we only occasionally order it.

Sample charcuterie board with pate. I am NOT a fan of Pate1

When the moon hits your eye like a big pizza pie

Every restaurant serves pizza and it seems nearly every customer orders it. The pizza is plain and simple, the crust is thinner than pizza crust from the US and for me does not really have much taste. The sauce, oh the sauce!

Ham and mushroom pizza was one of my favorites so far

Spaghetti Italian style

I have ordered spaghetti many times and I must say I do love the spaghetti from Italy. It is much different than spaghetti in the United States. It is simple and uncomplicated with tomato sauce and sometime cherry tomatoes in it. They don’t serve large portions of it here, but the amount seems just right. The noodles and the sauce are mixed carefully before placed on the serving plate with care. It goes great with their Italian bread (no salt and all)

Diet coke - coke 0

It seems to be the simple things in life that make us happy, something familiar. There is no Diet Coke here, but restaurants will be happy to serve you Coke 0.

Coke 0 in Fancy little 10 ounce bottles

The Florentine steak

Many restaurants in Florence have their butchered cows hanging in the window allowing their steaks to cure. The servings are large and plentiful. I have had 2 steaks in Florence and they were both fantastic. The taste is nothing like the taste of meat in the US. The Italian steak made of young steer of heifer that, combined with the specific preparation, makes it one of the most popular dishes of the Tuscan cuisine. Only seasoned with salt and pepper.

Typical T-bone steak dinner after server sliced it up for us

Photos and commentary of many of our meals in Florence

Alice looks great in candlelight!

Very reasonable prices

It has been our experience in all three cities we have visited thus far that the prices in our chosen restaurants have been very reasonable. As a matter of fact, we are convinced it is more expensive to eat a comparable meal in a Delray Beach restaurant than in the restaurants in Italy we have gone to. I could gustimeate the prices are anywhere from 30-40% cheeper than in South Florida.

More photos of our food experiences in Florence

The following photos are just a sampling of the many wonderful meals we had in Florence.

Bon apetit

We have both thoroughly enjoyed our visits to the restaurants in Florence. We ate out every meal from breakfast to dinner. All is good here. Come on out and enjoy

Prego

Chef Alicia and Cook Tomasso signing off

A long walk in Florence

This beautiful river is just a few blocks from our apartment and we walk here multiple times a day

Recovering Plantarfasciitis

When we started dating 2 years ago I was suffering with Plantar fasciitis in both feet.  I could not walk the mall without pain and differing in my feet.  I had been suffering with this for well over a year.  Took me entirely out of tennis my bi-weekly tennis games and other sport activities. Soon after our first few dates we had started planning our vacations together with great concern that I could walk the distance and steps required for an Italy vacation. Alice did all she could do to help cure my feet woes. Visits to podiatrist, orthoditcs, massive amount of nutrition pills, collagen, just to name a few. Nearly 2 years later my feet are much better thanks to Alice!  Both feet are still numb and or tingly at times.

Pelotom - My effort to be 35 again

November of last year I purchased a Peloton stationary bike because biking seemed to be one of the only exercises my feet and knees could take. Burning nearly 1,000 calories a day for the last month on my peloton before our trip I had hoped to get in shape, not only to look better but to be able to walk miles and miles each day.

When I met Alice during the beginning of covid she was walking 5-6 miles a day in her old neighborhood of Riverwalk.

We both love the health application in the apple phone applications as tethered to our apple watch. Every night we compare stats to determine the "winner" in each category. We look closely at heart rate, miles walked, trends, blood oxygen and others.

Our nightly routine

Every day we get home, turn the air conditioning on and check our health numbers on the iPhone. We were patting ourselves on the back with an average step count of about 15,000 steps per day until we read a post from someone who is averaging 30,000.  Reminded me of competing with the Peloton studs I somehow can't compete with. Never to forget there is always someone way better than you.

OUr competition. actually only mine

  • Alice beats me in step count every day by an average of 1,000+ steps…. makes no sense to me

  • Alice beats me on step length every day, again what?

  • My blood oxygen numbers are normally better than Alices, averaging more than 95%

  • Resting heat rate, I will give Alice a tie

  • Calories burned, I win, because I am a man and Alice says men burn more calories than women.

Sample screen print from Alices iPhone

Our steps are often as if we were in a 3 legged race. One, two, one two.

Tom walking the streets of Florence very close to our apartment

Apple Technology discrepancy. Steve Jobs where are you?

We have noticed a major discrepancy in steps taken between us.  Alice seems to walk 1,000 or more steps a day even though she is always at my side walking.  It also notes her stride is longer.  I believe both statistics are erroneous.  I have a long gate being 6'1" tall.  I just think the devices are not calibrated correctly.  We will do our own calibration tests soon by putting both phones in my pocket.

There are other challenges walking the streets of Florence.  They are very narrow with a small walking path that normally fits no more than one person. Watch out for speeding scooters, bike riders and taxi cabs. They would rather run you over than give you a chance to get out of the way.

This narrow alley way is everywhere, small paths and bikers, scooters and taxies speeding past you

Peloton studs I am coming for you!